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Dani Andrada. Golden Piton 2005. Want a sign that sport-climbing standards are still rising? Last fall, Action Directe, the benchmark 9a (5.14d), saw three repeats in less than two weeks, by Rich Simpson, Dai Koyamoda, and Markus Bock, after only five ascents in the previous 14 years. Or how about this? Spain's Patxi Usobiaga onsighted his ninth 5.14 in 2005 (he did three in 2005 alone, including a 5.14b). Or how about Josune Bereziartu climbing her third 9a (5.14d) and onsighting 5.13d? Or Adam Ondra climbing 5.14c at age 12? |
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Climbing Magazine and Dani Andrada|
Among
all these great performances no climber achieved more than Spain's Dani
Andrada, who went on an unprecedented new-route spree in the first four
months of 2005, establishing nine new routes of 8c+ (5.14c) or harder, at
four different cliffs in northern Spain. During one six-week stretch in
March and April, Andrada claimed five 5.14d or harder first ascents - including
two possible 5.15s. Definición de Resistencia Demócrata
at the limestone cave Terradets links sections of three older 5.14 routes
for a possible 5.15a, and La Novena Enmienda is a 52-meter-long
combination of a 5.14c and "hard" 5.14b at Santa Linya, for which
Andrada proposed the grade of 5.15a/b. Last Summer, Andrada ticked a couple
of other people's 5.14c routes at Ceüse, France, and then repeated
Estado Crítico (5.14d) at Siurana, Spain, his eighth 5.14d
or harder route of the year. Even allowing for the possibility of a little
grade inflation, Andrada's burst of extreme new route creation is remarkable
and earns him the 2005 sport climbing Golden Piton.
Font: Climbing.com |
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