Climbing the Angel Falls
Top: Ben, Alex, Alfredo.
Bottom: Miles, Ivan, Anne, John.
Angel Falls
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The biggest overhanging free-climb in the World .
A strong team of British, Venezuelan and Russian climbers has succeeded
in free-climbing the 1000m Angel Falls wall. The route, much of
it behind the highest waterfall in the world, is now the biggest
overhanging free-climb in the world and took nineteen days and fourteen
nights on the wall to reach a magical wind-sculpted plateau full
of exotic plants and animals. Of its 31 pitches, no fewer than nine
merited a British grade of E7, five of which were climbed entirely
on-sight. Almost all pitches were overhanging, over half were E6
or above, and the difficulties were compounded by considerable loose
rock throughout much of the route. A few pitches proved too hard
or too loose to onsight and were redpointed on trad gear at about
7c+.
The climbers were John Arran (UK), Anne Arran (UK), Miles Gibson
(UK), Ben Heason (UK), Alex Klenov (Rus), Ivan Calderon (Ven) and
Alfredo Rangel (Ven). John, Miles and Ben between them led all of
the hardest pitches but everyone in the team helped with the leading
as well as with all of the hauling and fixing work.
"We were all climbing really well and running it out on poor
gear, usually tiny cams and microwires", said Ben, "it was stressful
climbing and really helped to have the support of a big team to
help us recover between hard climbing days."
Miles agreed, "I don't think I've ever climbed so well, but we
were all so motivated to push on even though the way ahead looked
hideous."
John, Anne and Ivan had tried the line twice before - in 2002 and
2003 - but had been thwarted by logistics and by illness. "Getting
to the base was an epic adventure", said John, "involving a tiny
aeroplane landing on wild sabana and a multi-day dugout boat journey
up the river Churun with local indigenous Indians, including a close
encounter with a crocodile. So to get there and establish one of
the hardest big-wall climbs in the world on the most beautiful rock
face I've ever seen is truly a dream come true".
Angel Falls has seen several other ascents, most of which bypassed the main challenge of the face by starting from a 500m high shoulder on the left. Part of the free line followed a Spanish aid route, graded A4 and still unrepeated, which previously was the only direct line on the face.
Venezuelan tepuis are beginning to see more attention from big wall free climbers, with a number of routes on 400-700m walls being climbed in recent years, most of which are hard and bold but adequately protected without fixed equipment. The potential for more is enormous.
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