Batura Muztagh expedition 2006
-- a new attempt on the ``Highest Unclimbed Mountain on Earth'' -- The Karakoram is the central part of ``Asia's Solar Plexus'', the collision zone where the world's biggest mountain ranges meet. Rougher, wilder, emptier and far less accessible than the Himalaya, this is the highest mountain range on earth. The Batura Muztagh forms the northwest end of this range, and its most commanding feature is the Batura Wall

- an east-west crest which runs for over 10km at over 7000m, with its highest point, Batura I, falling just short of the magical 8000m line. The 7000m peaks in this region, indisputably among the world's most forbidding, include Ultar, Shispare, Bojohagur Duanasir and Passu, all with only 1 or 2 ascents, while Rakaposhi looks on from directly across the Hunza valley.

In the heart of the Batura Muztagh lies the current ``Highest Unclimbed Peak on Earth'', Batura II (7762m). In comparison to the multitude of higher untrodden points on the 8000ers and elsewhere (such as the almost countless spikes and peaklets between Lhotse and Lhotse Shar), this title has at least the merit that Batura II is essentially a self-standing mountain, and one of gigantic proportions. At the very least, the completion of only the second route on the Batura Wall would rank with a new line on the rather shorter Lhotse Wall for mountaineering achievement. However, despite the attentions of numerous expeditions, Batura II has continued resolutely to repel all suitors.

The most successful expedition to date was a strong Saxon team, led by Markus Walter in 2002, which reached c. 7100m. The Saxons were stymied by enduring foul weather and massive snowfall in a year which made the record books only as the worst mountaineering season in recent Karakoram history. The experience gathered on this bid forms the foundation of the current expedition's planning.

In fact Batura II remained an obscure and remote goal, known only to a select group of Karakoram cognoscenti, until 2005, when it hit the headlines through the efforts of professional alpinist Simone Moro (I) to promote it as the ``Highest Unclimbed Peak on the Planet'' (above). Still, neither he nor Carlos Buhler (USA), both in 2-man expeditions, were able to make much progress, and the mountain still retains its title and its draw.

This year a Saxon expedition is aiming once again for the first ascent, this time with a mini-team of only 2 climbers, Markus Walter (Germany) and Bruce Normand (Scotland). In addition to the inside knowledge gained in 2002, this pair already has the experience of over half a dozen first ascents in the Himalaya and Karakoram between them, so their chances could be rated as not too bad ...

The climbers:

Markus Walter (Germany): civil engineer, cofounder of the adventure travel company Diamir and of the Alpine Club of Saxony. Mountaineering experience in the Alps, Andes, Atlas, Tien Shan, Himalaya and Karakoram, including 5 8000ers (Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, Manaslu, Gasherbrum II and Nanga Parbat); new routes in the Himalaya (Cho Polu) and first ascents in the Karakoram (Kuchkulin Sar, Sax Sar, Yeti Sar).

Bruce Normand (Scotland): doctor of physics, member of the Academic Alpine Club of Zurich. Mountaineering experience in the Alps, Andes, Rockies, Alaska, New Zealand, Patagonia, Himalaya and Karakoram; new routes in the Himalaya (Tso Karpo Kang, Ripimo Shar, Drangnag Ri) and first ascents in the Himalaya (P6456, Peak 43, Chekigo) and Karakoram (Shimshal Whitehorn, P6050, P6350).

Detailed information about the expedition can be found on the Internet at www.alpinclub.com.
CALZADOS BOREAL SL
info@e-boreal.com - www.e-boreal.com